Roofing:

Most people fear a roof leak then any other type, and for good reason; it’s the first line of defense for keeping water out of the house. Roof leaks are most common around valleys, vents, plumbing collars, chimney and wall flashings, worn shingles, exposed nail heads, and over exterior walls. In most cases leaks can been prevented by performing routine maintenance, unless the roof covering has aged and is ready to be replaced. Proper maintenance of your roof will ensure you get the maximum performance from the covering. Here are some tips.

• Patch and seal any holes, cracks or lifting shingles in and around valleys
• Make sure all flashings and nails are secure and sealed with roof type caulking
• Plumbing collars should be adjusted so they lay completely flat
• Leaks around chimneys can be very hard to pinpoint so maintenance is crucial. Install a rain and rodent guard on top of the chimney. Also check the condition of the mortar and brick work of the chimney, especially at very top and around the roof flashing
• Remove leaves, tree branches and any other debris from roof
• Depending on the amount of mature trees around the house the eaves should be cleaned at least twice a year. If the downspouts discharge below the ground, they should be disconnected while the eaves are being cleaned. This will prevent debris from plugging the drain pipes and causing a leak
• Downspouts that discharge onto other roof surfaces should be connected directly to a lower eaves trough or main downspout. This will prevent any premature ware from the concentrated flow of water in that area

Note:
for your SAFETY, we do not recommend anyone go on a roof or ladder. We suggest you contact a professional contractor to perform any of the above tips or maintenance

Exterior:

Get to know your home inside and out! The exterior condition of your home is in some ways more important than the interior. All the exterior components and systems are designed to protect you and the building from the elements. Think about our Canadian climate, extremely hot summers, and icy cold winters. Our houses take a beating from the weather in this country. We owe it to our homes to take interest in their condition and perform routine maintenance.

• Seal holes or openings in soffits and walls where rodents or any vermin can enter
• Caulk around doors and windows. It's worth the money to hire a professional contractor to do this! They use quality materials and know the proper areas to seal
• To help prevent leaks and dampness, ensure the ground is sloped away from the exterior walls of your house and is not too high around basement windows
• Trim tree branches and bushes away from the roof, eaves, and exterior walls
• Make sure walkways are slightly sloped for drainage and free from tripping hazards
• Contact a professional to trim any tree branches from around electrical service wires or equipment
• Make sure exhaust vents are properly secured and sealed with caulking
• Remove any lint build-up from inside the clothes dryer vent and duct; outside and at the dryer
• Clean sand and grit from the patio door track. This will help prevent premature wear of the rollers and track
• Most doors and windows have small holes called weepers to drain condensation and rain water to the exterior. They are located at the bottom tracks of sliding doors and windows, and some hinged doors. They are often overlooked when cleaning and become plugged. This can result in interior leaks, wood rot and mold. The weepers should be cleaned twice a year.
• Protect all wood surfaces with paint or stain. Seal the joints on the top surfaces leaving the under sides open, that way if water does get behind the wood, it can drain out the bottom. The best advice we can give is only use the best exterior paint or stain money can buy. “You get what you pay for”!!!
• Try to limit the use of salt on walkways and driveways during winter. Salt can damage brick and concrete surfaces and it isn't environmentally friendly. Calcium Chloride based products or plain sand is a better choice!
  

HVAC (Heating/Ventilation/Air-Conditioning):

Of all the mechanical systems in a home HVAC are arguably the most complicated, especially in newer or renovated homes. These systems are installed for your health and safety. Mold, Indoor Air Quality (IAQ), carbon monoxide, humidity levels in the home and contents, and building materials can all be associated with HVAC. It is crucial that these systems be maintained to ensure your safety and to achieve maximum $ EFFICENCY $.

Maintenance you can do:

FILTERS...
Depending on the number of occupants and or pets, filters in forced air heating systems should be changed every 8 to 12 weeks. The idea here is to change the filter before it becomes plugged and restricts the air flow. A lack of air flow means your furnace has to work harder to maintain the desired temperature; this will reflect in your $ WALLET $. Note: The furnace should be turned off while changing the filter. Washable/reusable filters are available at most hardware stores for about $40 to $100. We recommend this type of filter unless someone in the house suffers from allergies or other respiratory disorders; there are special filtering systems for these cases. Consult with your family doctor/specialist or local HVAC contractor for further information.

EXHAUST FANS...

• Exhaust fans are primarily installed to control the humidity in a bathroom or kitchen, and to vent odors. Newer homes have what’s called a principal exhaust fan, specifically designed to control the overall humidity levels in the house. This fan is larger and more powerful then an average fan, and has switches at two locations, one in the bathroom it serves and one close to the thermostat on the main floor.
• All fans have a damper located in the duct where it connects to the fan body. These dampers are notorious for being stuck closed which will prevent the fan from exhausting the indoor air. Contact the manufacturer for instructions on how to fix this problem. In most cases it’s a very simple 5 minute job.
• Clean any grease build-up from the kitchen fan and filter. Grease build-up is a fire hazard.
• Vacuum dust build-up from cold air return grilles. To differentiate the cold air returns from the supply outlets (diffusers), simply hold a tissue to the grille while the system fan is running. The tissue will be drawn to the cold air return grille; a diffuser will blow the tissue away. Dust build-up on bathroom fan grilles is a good sign but should be vacuumed regularly so air can flow easily. You should also remove the grille and vacuum the fan a couple times a year.
• Check bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans, and clothes dryers to ensure they are exhausting directly to the exterior. You can do this simply by turning them on and observing the exterior vents. You should also observe the operation of the louvers or dampers for the exterior vents, they are quite often stuck but should open and close freely. Missing louvers or dampers should be replaced to prevent birds from nesting, and to reduce cold drafts from entering the house. 2nd floor fans usually vent through the roof and therefore will have to be checked by looking in the attic. We recommend that a professional inspect the attic.
• Check and clean clothes dryer ducts and vents regularly. A build-up of lint in the duct can be a fire hazard and will also use more $ ENERGY $.
  

Heating and cooling systems:

• Maintenance on any heating system must be done by a licensed specialist. The only maintenance you should perform is clean or replacement the air filters regularly.
• Oil-fired systems must be maintained annually. This is mandated in B 139. A written record of such maintenance is to be listed and kept attached to the ductwork or furnace.
• Natural gas systems are the most commonly used today. They should be maintained and inspected at least every two years. Most gas suppliers offer a heating insurance plan (HIP) that not only covers most parts and labor but also comes with an annual inspection and maintenance package. Contact your gas provider for more information about a HIP plan.
  

Air Conditioning/heat pump:

• Condenser units located outside should be level and the surrounding area kept free of any foliage. The unit should be slightly elevated from the ground to prevent corrosion.
• The fins on the sides look like car radiator and should be free of debris, damage and obstructions so as not to restrict air flow. The fins are very fragile and can be flattened or damaged easily. If this happens to a large area the air flow will be restricted causing the unit to work $ HARDER $. If this is the case, contact a contractor to service the unit.
• The evaporator coil is located inside the furnace plenum and is not visible or easily accessible. Acting like a filter, the coil can become plugged with dust causing ice build-up, condensation leaks and lack of cooling. The coil should be inspected and if necessary cleaned. This is complicated and must be performed by a qualified technician.
• Air conditioning units should be winterized by turning off the breaker or electrical disconnect, especially if you choose to cover the entire condensing unit outside. In the summer, turn the system on 48 hrs before operating.
  

$ Saving Electricity $:

Most electrical appliances that use a fan or motor have a filter or bag e.g. vacuum, clothes dryer, hairdryer, space heater etc. regular cleaning of such filters will ensure they operate at maximum efficiency, and that’s money right back in your pocket!

• Use a manual carpet and floor sweeper for general clean-up instead of your vacuum. They can be purchased for around $40 and you will get this money back in energy savings in about one year. It’s good exercise too!
• Change the filter and bag in your vacuum before they become plugged!
• Hairdryers use a lot of electricity, up to 1500 watts. Because they 'suck in' surrounding air, the intake grille can become plugged especially if sticky hair spray is used at the same time it’s blowing. This results in unnecessary power consumption. If your hairdryer shuts down after a few minutes of use, it is usually because the overheat protection (temperature limit switch) has tripped. Once cooled it resets and the dryer can be used again. In some cases this can be a fire hazard. If the intake grille is cleaned regularly this should not occur, and the dryer will always run as efficiently as possible.
• Clean or replace the kitchen exhaust fan filters regularly.
• Clean or replace the filters for space heaters. Most of them can be cleaned by vacuuming the filter and intake grille.
• Clean the dryer lint filter for each load of laundry, and clean the duct and exterior vent at least twice a year.